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Here are some knits that are essential for fashion sewing. These are my own definitions, (except where otherwise noted) so I am not sure how scholarly this is, but this is how I find it easy to differentiate them. Customers ask a lot about -

Fleece - Fleece, the #1 best selling fabric in the US, is common in fabric stores - it's printed or solid, 100% polyester, brushed on front and back, and most often used for blankets or outerwear. This pile fabric differs from fleece used for sweats, which is brushed on the back only, usually made of cotton-poly, and has some give. Only stretch fleece, with spandex, has true stretch.

Interlock - This 2-sided fabric has slightly noticeable ribs that look pretty much the same on both sides, and has a little bit of 2-way mechanical stretch. It's usually 100% polyester or 100% cotton. Because of it's low cost and wash-and-wear durability, the lightweight version is often used for linings and the heavier version for uniforms.

Jersey Knit - This single sided fabric looks a little nubbier and unfinished on the wrong side than the right side. The front typically has slightly noticeable ribs especially when you stretch it. It has more mechanical stretch than interlock, plus it's often blended with spandex to give greater stretch and recovery. Without the spandex it doesn't tend to bounce back to it's original shape. However, the amount of stretch and softness depends on the fiber and how it's knitted. Jersey comes in all price points, so it can be used for anything from t-shirts, underwear, childrens' wear, sleepwear, evening wear, daytime and more. There are cotton, rayon, polyester and even silk jerseys.

Lycra - Is a the brand name for elastane (as Europeans say), or spandex (as North Americans say), yarn made by Invista. It's possible for knit fabrics to stretch without spandex if they are knitted in such a way to allow for stretch, but they don't have 'snap' or recovery. Stretch without spandex is often called "mechanical stretch." Mechanical stretch is more like "give."

Matte Jersey - This term is used for a lot of different non-activewear knits, from 100% Rayon (not machine washable) to 100% Polyester, and everything in between (often 90% polyester, 10% spandex) . It's used for evening wear but is very versatile. It's a smooth, non-shiny moderately stretchy fabric that is wrinkle-resistant and fast-drying.

Mesh:  There are two main kinds that we carry:

Power mesh fabric is a stretch mesh with tiny but visible holes. The stronger varieties are good for bra backs.   Power mesh is also great for panties, thongs, and as an embellishment for day or night. I have seen many t-shirts with strips of power mesh around the neck and/or sleeves with the edges left raw (it does not ravel). Customers use this a lot for sleeves. And, I bought a skirt from Max Studio that has it sewn along the lining so that it peeks out at the bottom.

Glissenet (Glissenette, Glistenet, stretch illusion) fabric is very sheer and has holes that are basically invisible. It is like pantyhose, but stronger. You see this a lot on dance costumes, skating costumes or bridal dresses to fill in a low back or neckline for modesty. I don't know how they do it but I have many customers who make stockings for fashion dolls out of glissenet! Any of these meshes would be good for doll clothes and a variety of crafts. I use my scraps to make gift bags or bows. And finally, customers have used the stretch mesh fabrics to make wings for costumes - you can stretch them nice and tight. Some have dyed the white but honestly I am not sure how they did it, so you will need to experiment with a dye that can be used on a 100% synthetic fiber.

Modal is a licensed fiber by Lenzing. It's part of the rayon family. Modal is made from beech wood, grown on tree farms that practice sustainability. The Modal manufacturing process uses fewer chemicals and less water, and produces less waste than traditional rayon processes. it's often used in woven fabrics, but as a jersey knit it is wonderfully soft and can be used as you would use any other jersey fabric. It makes especially nice high-end tee shirts, innerwear and loungewear. It is softer than regular rayon jersey.

Ottoman - Ottoman is ribbed but flat on the back. It often used in activewear. The less shiny Ottomans also make nice casual wear.

Raschel: Two-way stretch activewear fabric that is has a bit rougher texture, and a high sheen.

Rayon Jersey - Rayon (or viscose) Jersey is, as the name implies, a t-shirt type fabric (not an activewear fabric) made from, believe it or not, plant fibers (cellulose). Many rayon jersey fabrics are blended with spandex but they are nice without spandex, too. It drapes and prints more nicely than cotton, but like all rayons, it can be damaged by handling it when wet, and by using excessive heat. So, hand wash or use the gentle cycle on your machine, and flat dry, and you will enjoy your garment for years. Modal and Tencel are popular Lenzing branded fibers that are types of rayon. Bamboo fabric can be said to be a type of rayon as well since it is also cellulose.  The hand of rayon jersey can range from dry and drapey to very soft. It is very breatheable. 

Rib Knits - Ribbed knits are knitted with ribs going all the way through (unlike Ottoman, which has a flat side) and are very stretchy in the direction perpendicular to the rib. The number of the rib defines the size of the rib and their spacing, like 1X1 (baby rib), 1X2, etc. They are used often in t-shirts and loungewear.

Slinky - Like Matte Jersey, this term is sort of hard to define but you know it when you see it! Basically it is an acetate-lycra fabric with ribs that is very stretchy and does not wrinkle. Usually it is somewhat shiny, but it can be crepey or even printed. Chicos' "Travelers" collection is an example of high-end slinky.

Tricot - Activewear type - not lining (see below). Usually nylon-spandex, 4-way stretch fabric used for bathing suits and other activewear. Lighter tricots are also good for underwear and slips. It's usually relatively matte but either side may be used, brushed on one side and slippery, and you can see the ribs very slightly especially when pulled.

Yarn-Dye - Yarn-dye means that the yarn was dyed before the fabric was knitted or woven. In the case of stripes, yarn-dye can be preferable to printing, because the fabric looks almost the same on both sides and the back of the fabric won't bleed through the stripe (it does look more finished on the right side, however).

Knit fabrics that Are Linings ... or Linings for Knit garments

Finding linings that will work for knits can be difficult. Most fabric stores only carry the woven types used for more structured garments such as dresses and jackets. You can double your fabric, or use an inexpensive, thin solid color fabric as a lining. However, we carry some linings especially for knits:

70D Lining: If you look at ready-to-wear skirts, dresses and crocheted items, the most common stretchy lining you will see is 70D (70 denier) polyester knit lining. It is inexpensive and has 2-way stretch. It can be washed to death. Since it's so inexpensive and easy to handle, it also makes a good "muslin."

Helenca Nylon Lining: For bras and activewear, the most common lining is Helenca nylon lining. It's 100% nylon but it's knitted in a way that it gives it 4-way stretch. It has a breatheable, meshy texture, and sometimes people double it. Helenca comes in a lot of different weights. After some experimenting, I think I have found the best weight for a variety of uses which is still easy to handle. When too thin, it can be snaggy and tough to handle. Regardless, it does need to be handled with care.

Tricot: 30D 100% nylon tricot is sheer, and is sometimes used for linings and undergarments, as well as quilt backing. 15D 100% nylon tricot is very, very sheer - probably too much so for lining. These two have very obvious ribs and are very light. They usually have a pretty bright sheen, some virtually sparkle, plus they are inexpensive and come in 100" + widths that are excellent for decorating and costumes.

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